Go West My Friends Part 1

The title of today’s blog refers to more simpler times and is Part 1 of a series I’ve been writing on the West Side of Playa. Back in the 1800’s, “Go West” was a popular term used to signify opportunity and a chance to escape the Eastern portion of the US for personal enrichment.  The same can be said for Playa del Carmen.  Head West My Friends and explore the city.  Not only is the Cost of Living lower, but there are great places to eat at a fraction of the cost of the East Side of Playa.

Mexico 307, Boulevard de Playa del Carmen, Avenue 50 or just plain Carretera Federal is the natural dividing line separating East Playa from the Western part of the city.  Once you cross the “Great Divide”, you will get a taste of what Playa was like before Tourism.  It is here you will find the greatest concentration of different neighborhoods, local businesses and shops catering more to the Local population.  If you look closely, there are distinct areas of Commerce.  Along Avenida Constituyentes you will find the greatest concentration of Auto Parts stores, another neighborhood where you will find Cerraherros (locksmiths) concentrated.  Along Avenida 125 the greatest concentration of Tallers de Autos (auto repair shops) and many other commercial businesses. Nestled between the many shops are local restaurants and food carts.

Living on the West Side in a predominantly Mexican Neighborhood, my circle of friends has grown exponentially.  I love my Expat Friends and we get together often, but there is something to be said about getting to know your local neighbors.  We dine at each other’s houses, when in need for a Taller (pronounced tie-yer) for anything (repairman) they are always quick to share a name and a phone number of a Local Business to help me out.  We also frequently like to dine out together. 

Locals always know the best places to eat that are economical, usually regional in food selection and often offer regional fare not found on the East Side of the Highway.  For me dining out in a local establishment is the Best of Mexico.  Corner Taquerías painted in the traditional blue and white motif, with Mom doing the cooking, Pop managing the orders and the kids doing the serving.  Everything is made by hand right down to the Tortillas.  Once you are introduced to these locales, dining not only satisfies your hunger, but it also satisfies your hunger for an in depth look at the Culture. 

When I dine with my Local Neighbors, in true Mexican fashion they are proud to show me their heritage expressed gastronomically.  It is also Spanish Immersion.  I am probably 80% fluent these days in the language, yet I have my faults and stumbles over the pronunciation and the finer points of grammar which can be hilarious at times but it’s all in good fun, plus there is no better way to learn than trial by fire!  Their patience is a marvel to me.  Questions abound.  What is this? What region is it from? Questions lead to stories and stories lead to a better understanding of the Culture on both sides of the Border.

A typical night out goes like this.  I drive.  ¿Dónde te gustaría ir?  ¿Tacos, Huaraches? Someone throws out a name, Tacos Diáz? Don Chava? and we’re off.  Usually, the majority vote is Tacos Diáz and we are off heading to the Arco Vial.  Tacos Diáz 100% sits on the corner of Avenida 115 and Calle 3 sur in the Colonia of Ejido with its traditional blue and white colors on the outside, the familiar Corona Logo painted on the white walls.  Inside, 10 tables, the walls adorned with old photos of the Revolución and Emiliano Zapata, colorful stencils on the walls and specific menu items.  The first thing you notice is no Tourists.  No English spoken, 100% Local.  The Menu is simple, the best of the best.  No table service, you place your order at the kitchen.  Un Taco Loco, dos de meciza, una quesadilla de Pastor, y una horchata por favor.  When the craving hits, a steaming bowl of Frijoles Charros.  The process gets repeated for each of us with slight variations including Cecina and Longaniza.  We choose our table.  As creatures of habit, it’s always the corner table left side #10.  From here we get a good view of the customers and the TV which always has a great video of a Mexican Concert.  Some nights it is a classic video of oldies, Vincente Fernandez, or a well-known Mexican Band from the Norte.  Not too loud, entertaining, and the volume is perfect for table conversation.  Tables fill up and empty in waves.  The wait is short, your name is called, and you go to the window for your order then off to the side bar to adorn your Tacos with the simplest of ingredients.  Cebolla and Cilantro, Pico de Gallo, Limón, salsa habanera and my personal favorite, la salsa roja made from Chile de Árbol.  Then off to the table to enjoy.

Customers come and go as we enjoy our meal and everyone without exception greets us with Buenas Noches and a hearty ¡Provecho! The sounds of the Video Concert, the occasional trucks rumbling by on the Arco and the occasional roar of the crowd or whistles from the Poliforo across the street only add to the experience.  Our conversation and stories range from our childhood experiences to our adult dreams, places we’ve visited, and for me, asking questions about the Playa Lifestyle.  The Conversation is non-stop with only brief pauses to enjoy the flavors of Mexico.

Time to pay.  Back to the window where you ordered, your ticket is added up and you pay in efectivo (Pesos).  If there are 2 of us, the bill is $370 Pesitos.  Not too shabby for 5 Tacos each plus a quesadilla and Agua. 

I love these hidden gems.  As much as I would like to keep their locations quiet, I also want to see places succeed.  If you are game, Tacos Diáz 100% is open only from 7pm until about 2 am closed on Wednesday.  As with all things Mexico, the hours fluctuate for reasons only one can imagine.  They are closed when they should be open and open when they should be closed.  Welcome to Mexico!  Next time, we will talk about our alternate when Tacos Diáz 100% is closed. 

Until next time, ¡Provecho!