EASY DAY TRIPS FROM PLAYA – PART 3 CHICHÉN ITZÁ

Chichén has got to be my all-time favorite of day trips to plan.  Located a good 3 hours from Playa it takes you out of the realm of Playa del Carmen and into the world of the Maya and Colonial Mexico.  It is a long day, but the rewards far outweigh the length of the drive especially if you do it on your own.  Commercial Tours will get you there, but you only see what they want you to see in a limited time frame.  Traveling on your own gives you the freedom to vary your itinerary to see more and enjoy the Colonial and Mayan Experience.

When I set up a tour for friends or family its on the road at 7:00 am.  Yes, that’s early, but there is a lot to see and a lot of driving.  I would also like to point our that once you cross the border into Yucatán State you are now on Central Time, and you will gain one hour.    There are two ways to drive out to the Pueblo of Pisté where Chichén is located.  You can either head out on the Mérida Cuota which is the fastest way, or you can take the Libre with no tolls.  The Cuota can be accessed from the western end of Avenida Donaldo Colosio and the Libre can be accessed by heading south to Tulum and picking up Mexico 109.  The Libre will take you through many Pueblitos (small towns) and traffic can be heavier with trucks and tour buses avoiding the Toll Road.  The choice is yours.  Many times, with visitors we go to Chichén via the Cuota and return via the Libre from Valladolid.

It is important to go to Chichén early.  One, to avoid the Tours that arrive mid-morning and afternoon.  During High Season, the number of visitors at the Ruins can exceed 11,000 daily.  The second reason is the heat.  If you think Playa is hot, Pisté is hotter with higher humidity.  Temps can easily exceed 40 C (104 F) during the summer months.  Hats, sunscreen, and comfortable shoes are very important.  If you happen to be a Resident, you are in luck. There is a fee to park.  The Entrance fee will be about $270 Pesos as opposed to the full price of $495 per person if you are a resident.  Because Chichén is such an important site definitely hire a Local Guide before entering.  The Cost is about $1000 Pesos (not including tip).  Plan to spend at least 3-4 hours or more in the Ruins.  Even then you will not have enough time to see everything.  It is a HUGE site.  If you have the opportunity, Chichén Viejo will soon be open as work continues on the restoration and excavations.  There are no services such as bathrooms in the Ruins and only one locale for refreshments at exorbitant prices near the Cenote Sagrado.  Vendors abound inside the site due to a lifting of restrictions by the Government, negotiate well if you plan to buy.  

On a side note, Chichén was recently closed due a disagreement with the Managing Director from INAH.  INAH, the Instituto Nacional de Antropología y História.  Without going into too much detail, Chichén resides on Ejido Land and is administered by the Local Government with INAH.  The dispute is centered around treatment of the Indigenous Population.  Through a recent agreement, the embargo on Tourism was lifted but the dispute remains to be rectified.  Even with the current discord, it is still perfectly safe to visit and had I not mentioned it you would not even be aware of the issue.  Such is México and Tourism always seems to prevail.

The second stop for the day is in the actual Pueblo of Pisté.  Having traveled out there many times, I like to treat my friends and family to truly authentic Yucatecan Food.  My restaurant of choice is called Los Mestizos.  The food is excellent and the prices very reasonable for lunch in a Tourist Area.  Many of my guests have never experience true Yucatecan Fare, so I usually order a mix of items that everyone can share.  Salbutes, Panuchos, Papa Azules, Escabeche, Colchinita Pibil, Poc Chuc and Chiles Rellenos.  

After lunch it’s off to Valladolid for a few hours.  Its not a long ride and if your timing is good, you should be there around 4 in the afternoon.  Parking is easy near the Main Square.  Besides the Cathedral, built with stones taken from Chichén by the Spaniards, there is always something going on in the main square.  I usually allot about 2 hours for the visit.  If you are looking to just chill, I would suggest drinks at the Hotel Mesón del Marqués (great place to stay overnight) or walk a few blocks to Cenote Jací that is located right in Centro.  Overlooking the cenote, you can snack or just relax with local drinks under the Palapa overlooking the cenote.  Even in the afternoon heat, the air is breezy under the Giant Palapa and the ceiling fans are a welcome addition.

Heading home there are several ways to go.  As I mentioned earlier you can head for the Libre or take the Cuota.  If time permits, I like to exit the Cuota early and take the back roads into the Pueblo of Leona Vicario.  Leona Vicario Pueblo was home to the Chicleros, who controlled access the trees that produce the resin to make chewing gum.  It has a long tumultuous history.  From Leona Vicario you can access the Ruta de Cenotes and head east to the Carretera Federal.  The Ruta de Cenotes ends at the highway near Puerto Morelos.

The last part of this series will be Valladolid and Ek Balam.

In future Blogs, we will look at extending your stays in Chichén and Valladolid as well as other locations to enjoy all that the Yucatán has to offer.  On a personal note, I am not a Tour Guide, nor do I have any affiliations with any of the entities in my Blogs.  I am simply in love with this Country, its Culture and History.  I promote visiting and sharing all that this great country has to offer with all its rich heritage and history with emphasis on supporting the local economies.